Beautiful Barbados

Barbados Flower Forest is worlds away from the manicured resort garden

By Ailsa Francis, Citizen Special March 19, 2011

In the Barbadian hills overlooking the rough seas of the Atlantic Ocean is a botanical wonderland called the Flower Forest. When we were there in the middle of February, we were told it had been unseasonably wet, since the rains usually come between June and November. Thankfully, the showers didn't last long and when the sun returned, our stroll through this huge, privately owned garden felt like a walk back in time when tropical forests originally blanketed this island. Open every day of the year, it is lovingly tended by David Spieler (and his team), who is also the owner of a ceramic business on the island called Earthworks Pottery.

The Flower Forest is located in what is known as the Scotland District of Barbados. This means that the area is quite wild and hilly, with elevations ultimately reaching between 850 to 1,100 feet above sea level. The island boasts a sub-tropical climate with 3,000 hours of sunlight every year (compare this to Ottawa at 1,989 hours a year) and an average daily temperature of around 30 C.

This horticultural delight was christened the Flower Forest in 1983 after several years of development by the Hill family, with the design help of American architect Fritz Laundy. Don Hill must have been at his wit's end since his first attempt to farm the land ended in failure, followed by an unsuccessful stint at growing fruit trees (the monkeys ate the fruit and damaged the trees). After Hill, the land was run by a board of directors until it was purchased in 2008 by Spieler (who had been a member of that board for three years).

Helped along the way by Kewtrained horticulturist Richard

IF YOU GO

Flower Forest, Richmond, St. Joseph, P.O. Box 5T, St. Thomas, Barbados, West Indies. Telephone/fax: (246) 433-8152

Website: www.barbados.org/ flowfrst.htm

Open: Seven days a week, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Admission: $20 Barbadian (approx. $10 Cdn.) for adults; $10 Barbadian (approx. $5 Cdn.) for children.

More: There is a gift shop on site as well as a café serving a modest selection of small meals and snacks. Coughlan, who runs another botanical must-see on the island called Orchid World, Spieler has been continuing to build this garden into a worthwhile tourist destination.

The Flower Forest has a vast array of trees, shrubs and flowering plants, many of which are indigenous to the Caribbean and, in many cases, Barbados in particular. One of the most common plants is the Royal palm (Roystonia oleracea, known colloquially on the island as the Cabbage palm) which can reach heights of 40 metres (130 feet). Spieler describes this plant as very fertile; the three gardeners employed here have to regularly remove the seedlings to keep them from overtaking less vigorous species. Other plants showcased here include the Agave barbadensis or Maypole, (indigenous to Barbados and all the islands of the Lesser Antilles) and the grapefruit (Citrus x paradisi), a hybrid citrus actually bred in Barbados during the 18th century. The pineapple (Ananias comosus), which is indigenous to South America but made its way to the Caribbean, is also present. A rare and primitive fern known as the Skeleton Fork Fern (Psilotum nudum) has also been introduced; found in tropical and sub-tropical areas around the world, this rootless plant has an unusual branching form that resembles coral.

Outrageously colourful and exotic tropicals like false lobster claws (Heliconia), torch ginger (Nicolaia elatior), glory bower (Clerodendron thomsoniae) and the Pride of Barbados (Poinciana pulcherrima) are all found blooming throughout the gardens. I also spied huge crotons, philodendrons, Sago palms, snake plants, bougainvillea, blue sky vine (Thunbergia grandiflora) and orchids while walking along, as well as the unusual Chinese hat or parasol plant (Holmskioldia sanguinea). And on our visit, we were routed around the fallen orange-red blooms of the African tulip tree (Spathodea campanulate) that decorated the paths.

Growing plants in this tropical location has its own unique brand of challenges. Last fall, Hurricane Tomas brought damaging winds and eroding rains to the island, the detritus of which the gardeners are still clearing. There are also giant African land slugs that are eating their way through the garden. At 20 centimetres long and 10 cm wide, these pests are not to be scoffed at.

Spieler has been introducing a predatory wasp to deal with a thrip problem that is affecting the Sago palms.

Unchecked, these pests would really mar the beauty, not to mention affect the vigour of these majestic palms.

If you're in Barbados, do seek out this treasure. It showcases tropical plants the way in which they were meant to be seen.

Visit Ailsa Francis's blog at hortus2.wordpress.com

From: http://www.ottawacitizen.com/life/Tropical+tour+force/4469211/story.html

By Patricia Borns, Globe Correspondent

Even if I can't make the Sunday, March 20 turning of Morgan Lewis on Barbados, I'll sleep better knowing that the sugar grinding mill is sailing again. Right, sailing, with a full set designed just for historic windmills by Doyle Sails.

At the height of Barbados's sugar empire in the 1800s, 90 percent of the island's land grew sugar cane, and over 500 stone tower mills turned on the wind. Morgan Lewis was perfectly positioned on a hillside of Scotland District National Park facing the Atlantic Ocean, with arms outspread to catch the trades blowing from Africa. Very few of those mills are left today.

The mill manufactured muscovado sugar, syrup, molasses and rum from about 1727 until 1944 when it ceased to function. Eventually the World Monuments Fund selected it among 100 sites on the planet for urgent preservation. A spokesman said, "The mill offers an opportunity for profound historical and cultural reflection.''

Today Morgan Lewis is sailing again, an example of a superbly built 18th century sugar cane crushing mill, the largest still intact in the Caribbean, The turning is a happy event with volunteers racing to keep the grinders stoked with locally grown cane (watch those hands) and people lining up with plastic jugs for delicious cane juice.

Love the view, check out the crafts, then take a hike to Cherry Tree Hill and St. Nicholas Abbey, or skip down the hill to the beautiful, usually deserted east coast beach

Phone: 246-426-2421
Website: funbarbados.com
Price: $10 (children half price)

From http://www.boston.com/travel/blog/2011/03/morgan_lewis_sa.html

Published Date: 23 August 2009

By Katie Wood

IT'S hard to be grumpy in Barbados, but I managed it. So am I a spoiled, pesky individual who would find fault in paradise? No, genuinely no. I just got rather hacked off hearing the Caribbean island constantly referred to as Little England.

Not only are there plenty of physical similarities on the east coast of Barbados to Scotland (hence it's actually called the Scotland District), but when you delve into its history there are countless strong links to north of the border. And, as we all know, nothing - well few things - irritate a Scot more than being called English.

So, since a sizeable proportion of the population has Scottish blood flowing through their veins, I politely pointed out to my new Bajan pals that it might be more accurate (and PC) to call it Little Britain.

As a break from the idyllic beach, delicious food and barrage of cocktails one normally associates with the Caribbean, I took myself off to the Barbados Museum and Historical Society, where I discovered several interesting papers that took me through the background of the "MacBajans". The first "proprietor" of Barbados was the Scotsman James Hay, Earl of Carlisle. Following the establishment of trading links between Scotland and the West Indies, Scots indentured servants were in constant demand on Barbados plantations, and many married African slaves; hence you find black Hamish MacDonalds and the like on the island today.

Three major spurs caused Scots to be banished to the island: Cromwell's victory between 1648 and 1651; the Covenanter Risings in the second half of the 17th century and the Jacobite rebellions of 1715 and 1745. There were also voluntary immigrants, as throughout the colonial period a steady trickle of Scots sought to inhabit Barbados because of the various opportunities offered by the land.

Barbados is also of special significance to genealogists, as it was the springboard for the settlement of other British colonies - notably Jamaica and South Carolina. One infamous inhabitant of Scots descent was Rachel Pringle - the illegitimate daughter of a Scottish sea captain and a local black woman, whose claim to fame is that she founded the first brothel in Barbados. That famous Scottish entrepreneurial streak strikes again.

Another link with home is the annual Celtic Festival, which takes place each spring. Pipers, dancers, choirs, a haggis night, a rugby tournament… sounds like a real home from home.

Okay, I won't pretend I spent all week leafing through dusty ancient manuscripts in the museum while it was 85 degrees of perfection outside. So what else should one not miss on the island? Well, a good start would be a trip on the Cool Runnings, a luxurious catamaran offering five-hour sails with snorkelling, lunch, hotel transfers and a free bar thrown in - well worth the £58 a head. It's great to get on the water and enjoy a rum punch, and it's a good way to see the beautiful Barbadian coastlines.

The aforementioned Scotland District, on the east coast, reminded me of Ardnamurchan. Battered by Atlantic seas (though turquoise, not the murky grey we know so well), the whole area is wild, uncommercialised and seriously beautiful. Here you find the little village of Bathsheba, huddling beneath cliffs and populated mainly by surfers.

What distinguishes Barbados from other Caribbean islands is its sophistication and infrastructure (and, come to that, the large middle class). Here you find a National Trust looking after many of the historically important buildings. Worth visiting are Morgan Lewis Sugar Mill, one of the oldest and largest surviving in the Caribbean, and Tyrol Cot Heritage Village, the former home of Sir Grantley Adams. This beautifully restored 1854 mansion, with its Barbadian antiques, is the centrepiece of an authentic chattel house village that features a market for local arts, crafts, food and drink.

The visit to the Foursquare rum distillery at St Philip is akin to a good whisky distillery tour. It's set in a beautifully landscaped park and occupies the site of an abandoned sugar factory.

The renovated St Nicholas Abbey, a Jacobean mansion dating back to 1658, is one of Barbados's most historic landmarks. There's also an 1890 steam mill, gift shop and restaurant. And don't miss the film of Barbados as it was in the 1920s, which is absolutely charming.

As a destination of only 166 square miles, but with more than 100 restaurants of every genre, Barbados is known for the quality of its food. Indeed, the range of restaurants is one of the primary reasons repeat visitors account for 40 per cent of arrivals in Barbados. If you want a really special meal, the Fish Pot, near Speightstown, is a great place to go. A favourite of Tony Blair and numerous A-list celebs, it is a relaxed beachfront location with an excellent menu and a Bajan chef who has worked in fine kitchens around the world. It has fabulous seafood, steaks, Asian fusion, creative salads, fantastic desserts and an excellent wine list - lunch costs around £80 for two.

The restaurant is attached to a cluster of luxurious suites that make up the accompanying Little Good Harbour hotel (www.littlegoodharbourbarbados.com). It offers peace, tranquillity and all the privacy of a personal villa while at the same time affording all the amenities of a hotel.

But if you prefer to lock your wallet away for the duration of your stay, Almond Beach Resorts has the monopoly on all-inclusives. It has three properties on Barbados: Almond Beach Village, with an impressive mile-long beach, five restaurants, comfortable rooms, a kids' club and all manner of land and water sports; the new Almond Beach Casuarina, which has good facilities but somewhat lacks atmosphere in the public areas and has no nightclub; and the adults-only Almond Beach Club, which has the best spa and a great location, right next to Sandy Lane, on the west coast (though service can be patchy and the beach is too small for comfort when the resort is busy). The value for money in all of them, however, is seriously good. And as a Scot, that makes real financial sense.

Fact file: Barbados

Barbados Tourism Encyclopedia (020 7636 9448, www.barbados.org)

A seven-night stay at the Almond Beach Village starts from £1,179 per person. Seven nights at the Almond Casuarina Beach starts from £999 per person. Seven nights at the Almond Beach Club & Spa starts from £1,069 per person. These prices include return international flights with Virgin Atlantic from Gatwick or Manchester, direct to Barbados, and return transfers - based on two adults sharing a standard room on an all-inclusive basis.

To book, call 0844 5573 859 or visit www.virginholidays.com/almond

For more information about the hotels, call 0871 871 2828 or log on to www.almondresorts.co.uk

 

From http://scotlandonsunday.scotsman.com/spectrum/Barbados-Little-Britain.5577599.jp

From http://cruise4cuisine.blogspot.com/2008/08/worlds-sexiest-beaches-2008-little.html

11. Site: St. Philip, Barbados

Bring the heat: It's only 21 miles long, yet Barbados has a bit of everything: Fine dining and bawdy beach shacks, cricket matches and Mount Gay Rum tours, the posh Caribbean Platinum Coast and the rough-and-tumble (and Highland-like) Scotland District up north. Gauge your partner's whims and go.

Select sands: Been fantasizing about pink-sand beaches while sitting in your beige work cubicle? Imagine waking up, running out of the hotel with your lover, and straight onto Crane Beach, backed by tall cliffs and baby powder–fine sands that glow pink. It's a primal place that might encourage a detour back to the hotel.

Hookup potential: Minimal. There are other tourists to check out, but Barbados is really about spiriting out of town for a week with somebody you'd like to know better.

Privacy rating: 8.3. The western coast packs 'em in, leaving your side of the island just as it should be: empty.

Pillow talk: Unless you're desperate to hang around the crowds, the Crane's remote location—on an east-coast cliff overlooking Crane Beach—is ideal for intimacy. You have a choice between the rooms in the original section (built in 1887) or the new private residences, which come with private plunge pools.

Crane Resort
Tel: 800 223 9815 (toll-free)
Tel: 246 423 6220
Doubles from $150