Caribbean: Rum, reggae and sun in Barbados
Sunday, May 24, 2009
Ryan Parry checks in and chills out on one of the Caribbean’s most laid-back islands
Dazzling white beach, crystal clear water and a rum punch within reach – heaven on earth.
Most Caribbean islands evoke the usual cliches about “paradise”. But in Barbados the cliche becomes reality.
With its endless palm-lined beaches, luxury resorts and laid-back locals, it’s the dream destination for millions of Brits.
It’s also a firm favourite with celebrities such as Simon Cowell, Wayne Rooney and Sir Cliff Richard who has a house there.
It’s my fifth time on the island and I’m desperate to get back.
We stayed at the Almond Casuarina Beach resort on Dover Beach on the south coast.
This 10-acre all-inclusive gem in its elegant but natural setting is as relaxing as it gets.
There are three pools to lounge by and a stunning section of beach feet away.
The only brief interruption to my tanning came when a handful of pesky kids ignored the “No Under 16s” notice by the pool and plunged in. Ah well.
Just four miles from the capital Bridgetown, and five miles from the airport, the resort is a four-star, 267-room hotel offering snorkelling, windsurfing, sailing, kayaking, a gym and tennis.
It also has three fantastic gourmet restaurants serving an a la carte menu.
One day we popped over to the adults-only Almond Beach Club – literally a stone’s throw from the celeb haunt of Sandy Lane.
It’s also just spitting distance from St Lawrence Gap, a mile-long street teeming with clubs pumping out calypso, reggae, jazz and R&B.
Here you’ll find McBrides Pub which offers the perfect way to cool off after a hard day baking in the sun. With happy hour from 11pm to 1am every night and live reggae music, it’s a great way to unwind.
A short walk away you’ll find The Ship Inn, another favourite with Brits. Both are rammed at weekends so go midweek.
And after a few drinks you can’t miss Barnacle Bill’s BBQ which starts at 10.30pm for late-night munchies.
Food is a real treat in Barbados. With plenty of local fresh fish, shellfish and tropical fruit, it’s also good value for money.
But if you fancy a special treat, try the open-air Cliff restaurant in St James. It’s situated on top of a high coral cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea and has the food and service to match the scenery.
At night the tiny beach below is illuminated to add to the romance of the setting. But you’ll have to book early during peak season.
There’s more to Barbados than beaches and booze though.
This former British colony is obsessed with horse racing, polo and of course cricket. Then there are the plantation houses, botanical gardens and military forts.
The capital, Bridgetown, is one of the oldest cities in the Caribbean and offers decent restaurants and nightlife.
You can even combine culture with booze.
We stopped by the 250-year-old Four Square Rum Factory which sits amid fields of sugar cane.
Our guided tour was followed by a tasting session – although the owner’s son was less than impressed when we necked six test tubes of his finest rum and then stumbled around making inappropriate jokes.
Luckily, for shaking off a hangover, a visit to Silver Rock on the east coast is ideal. Here you will meet windsurfing legend Brian “Action Man” Talma.
He will teach you to surf, windsurf, kite-surf and just about anything else in the water. Always smiling, he bounces around his beach using the word “action” more times than strictly necessary, but he cooks a mean BBQ on the porch of his De Action Shop.
The east coast beaches have the biggest waves and are popular with surfies. But they also have dangerous currents, so swim at your peril.
Barbados is also known for its snorkelling and dive sites. I went out to Carlisle Bay with the guys from Dive Barbados Blue. There are four shipwrecks here teeming with aquatic life and near by sea turtles hang out looking for food.
Because the east coast is less built up, it’s easy to find a secluded beach.
A day out I’d definitely recommend here is Sunday Gospel Brunch at The Crane. You help yourself from a fantastic buffet while being serenaded by gospel singers.
After that you can stroll down to the stunning beach – voted one of the top five in the world.
On Friday or Saturday nights you have to get over to Oistins, a tiny fishing village in the parish of Christ Church. Hundreds of locals and visitors flock here for Fish-Fry. A ramshackle gathering of sidewalk stalls combine to make up dozens of tiny restaurants . Local arts and craftsmen display their wares while a reggae band keeps the party going into the night.
Our evening was interrupted when a power-cut swept across the island leaving Oistins in darkness except for the glow of the barbecues. Time to hit the generator-powered hotel bar. Mine’s a pina colada – with a sparkler please.
My top five..
1 Oistins fishing village – Fish-Fry Friday and Saturday night when every kind of fish is BBQd, fried or grilled.
2 The Crane hotel beach – breathtaking must-visit spot on the east coast.
3 The Ship Inn – guaranteed good night out in the St Lawrence Gap, pick a night with live reggae music.
4 Four Square Rum Factory – interesting distillery tour with rum tasting session at the end.
5 The Cliff – expensive special treat but worth every penny.
GETTING THERE
Seven nights at the four-star premium Almond Casuarina Beach starts from £1,059pp all-inclusive. Price includes return flights with Virgin Atlantic from Gatwick direct to Barbados and return transfers. Price also includes taxes and fuel surcharges which are subject to change. Prices are based on two adults sharing a standard room.
To book visit www.virginholidays.com/almond or call 0844 5573 859.
For more information about the hotel visit www.almondresorts.co.uk or call 0871 871 2828.
For more information on Barbados visit the Tourism Authority at www.visitbarbados.org.
Virgin Atlantic flies from London Gatwick to Barbados daily. Fares start from £449 inclusive of taxes and can be booked at www.virginatlantic.com or by calling 08705 747 747. Premium economy fares start from £759.
For kiting, windsurfing, surfing, fishing or just learning how to blow the conch shell visit De Action Beach Shop at Silver Sands. www.briantalma.com.
For diving visit www.divebarbadosblue.com or call (246) 434 5764
Websites for walking tours: www.hfholidays.co.uk/guidedwalking/barbados (020 8732 1220), www.ramblersholidays.co.uk
(01707 331133) or www.peachandquiet.com
Seven nights at the four-star premium Almond Casuarina Beach starts from £1,059pp all-inclusive. Price includes return flights with Virgin Atlantic from Gatwick direct to Barbados and return transfers. Price also includes taxes and fuel surcharges which are subject to change. Prices are based on two adults sharing a standard room.
Labels: airport, Barbados, beach, Bridgetown, Caribbean, Four Square Rum, Gospel Sunday brunch, horse races, Oistens, plantations, reggae, rum, Sandy Lane, scuba diving, snorkel, St. James, St. Lawrence Gap, The Crane
Wednesday, week two: Bajan Roots and Rhythms at the Plantation
Thursday, September 4, 2008
As usual, the rest of Wednesday didn't work out quite how I thought it would. We ended up going out to breakfast at the Crane and saw that the surf was a little high, possibly due to one of the hurricanes forming out to sea. So, we decided that we wouldn't have the afternoon as an ocean day but would go to the pool instead.
Tom did some work and I did some reading/napping and he got a new job coming in. So, it was about 3 before he suggested that it was pool-time. I thought I should take a serious nap since we'd be out all night at the Bajan Roots and Rhythms show (this site has music and video) at the Plantation.
So, I stopped the pretense and put down my book and fell asleep for real. Tom continued working, calling people, checking email - the usual.
About 5, we started getting ready since the shuttle pick-up was 5:30. We got to the Plantation early - our shuttle was the first one there - even before the payment booths were open. That was a first for us, to be anywhere early.
We talked to others from our shuttle and the nice crew of the Plantation set up a table so that all 10 of us from the Crane could sit together. That was nice and we got to talk to others from here. One couple is staying right over us, in 221. They had spent the day driving around, getting lost, making their way up to Bathsheba.
We all got our complementary drinks and were taken to our table, very close to the front. Last time we were a little closer - actually on the dance floor - but those are four little round tables. Since we were a group we had a nice large table with more room for our food and drinks. We were as close as we could be without being on the dance floor.
The waitress kept bringing us more drinks. I finished my one rum punch and switched over to piña coladas. She would bring a fresh drink whenever I had only about half the previous drink. She also brought water, which was a good thing!
After a little while, the steel drum band started playing. One guy had a double drum, one on bass, a few on other parts, one "real" drum and an electric guitar. They called themselves The Casablancas and they were very good. They continued to play while we ate.
We also got to go through the buffet line first, maybe because we were seated first, whatever. The meal was as I described earlier, with the addition of the macaroni pie and also beef stew. They had a wide selection of desserts, too. I got way too much food and couldn't finish most of it. I never found any hot sauce so I didn't eat much of my flying fish.
I just love that hot sauce, made with Scotch bonnet peppers. We got some to take home one year but since we never have flying fish at home it's still unopened. I'm sure I could eat it on something else but it wouldn't seem "right".
After everyone finished eating, there was a little Name That Tune contest with the steel drummers. Unfortunately for me, they played music that most people would recognize. Had they played local music I might have won.
Then the MC came out and introduced the show. The first set was from Africa and had belly dancers, African costumes, and the stilt walkers made their first appearance, entering right next to our table. The music was loud, with a great beat, and the costumes gorgeous and colorful.
Also in this show was a little "street scene" from Bridgetown about 100 years ago. This was my least favorite set.
The set from Cuba, old-time Havana cabaret was great and I loved the Crop Over enactment. Included in that is a "Mother Sally" character, tumblers Shaggy Bear and more stilt walkers.
The stilt walkers were fabulous and they did way more than walk. They danced, jumped, did splits in the air. I was sure that they might hit the ceiling sometimes, they were so tall.
There was a tribute to local superstar Rihanna and they danced to some of her music. Bob Marley also warranted a tribute and some of his reggae music was featured.
The fire eater was amazing, too. And the limbo dancer did her limbo-ing under a rod of fire. When they had the limbo contest at least the rookies who volunteered from the audience didn't have to go under fire!
When the show was over, a singer came out and sang popular music. People sang and danced to soca, reggae, calypso and more. What a great party!
Labels: Bajan Roots and Rhythms, Bob Marley, Bridgetown, calypso, Crop Over, fire eater, flying fish, limbo, Mother Sally, piña colada, Plantation, pool, reggae, Rihanna, rum, Scotch bonnet peppers, Soca, steel drums, stilt walkers, The Crane