Beautiful Barbados

Friday, August 20:

I had an early morning appointment to get the stitches out of my back, then I came home to await the UPS delivery. It arrived at 3:00. Whew! Then to start set-up and adding my favorite programs that I need for the trip. Installing applications is a bit different from Windows but I finally got that figured out ok.

Took Mimi to her sister's for her vacation then home to pack. Our flight was out of Reagan, further away from us than Dulles and it was at 7:10 AM so it was to be an early start. Got everything packed and got to bed sometime after midnight.

Then, I got up and repacked the backpack. I had been going to take a larger one, intended for the Gateway but I realized that the Macbook might fit into my favorite backpack – and it did. So, smaller and lighter all-around. YEA!

Saturday, August 21:

The taxi arrived at 5:00 am and we got to Reagan just about 5:45. Plenty of time. The one main suitcase was 40.5 pounds so we didn't have to pay for overweight luggage. The first flight to Miami was uneventful. Our connecting flight was the next terminal over and we had about 40 minutes to get there so we really hustled. Thank goodness for rolling bags and my lighter backpack!

Along the way, of course I lost my neck pillow. I seem to lose one per trip. I vowed that the next one would have a bungee cord or something to attach it to my bag. Luckily, the little news shop had one with a snap at the front so I could snap it onto my bag and around my neck on the plane.

The flight crew was coming from elsewhere and they were late clearing customs/immigration so we didn't board the plane until an hour late. We didn't have to hustle quite as fast to get there.

On flights I almost always get Mr. and Mrs T's Bloody Mary Mix to drink. It's like a spicy V-8 and most flight magazines list it as an available drink. Our stewardess seemed amazed that I wanted that. Then, my husband wanted one, too, and she acted like she'd never heard of people drinking the stuff. Oh, well. She gave him a can, anyway.

I watched a movie and promptly fell asleep. The flight from Miami is about 3.5 hours which is a long time to sit in an airplane seat. My legs kept falling asleep, too.

We arrived in Barbados an hour late, of course, but we got here! So did our luggage. A major plus. Cleared customs and immigration with no problem and headed over to Stoute for our rental car. We've been renting cars from them for 12 years or so so we might own one of them by now!

Got the car and headed out – remembering to drive on the left side – to The Crane, our home-away-from-home.

Everything keeps changing here and it's all for the good. When we first bought in 1998, we were staying up the coast at a place called Coral Point where we'd stayed since 1996. We had actually wanted to buy that place but we would have had to buy outright and have to rent it out for the times that we weren't here aka most of the year. That place was beautiful and private but really too big for us. There were 4 bedrooms which is normally 3 too many. Even with guests, it would be 2 too many. But we looked into it and it would cost quite a bit plus we'd have to pay someone (Stoute, again – they do lots of stuff here!) to manage the place when we weren't here. Tom had seen a lawyer about buying here and it is very hard for non-locals to buy property in Barbados.

We went to lunch at The Crane just up the beach, a beautiful old hotel and restaurant built in 1887. A Canadian man named Paul Doyle had bought The Crane and he had big plans. We looked over the site maps, the plans, talked to Paul, liked what we saw/heard and bought 4 weeks worth.

When we came back in 1999, we had to stay in the original hotel but it was on the second floor and had a wonderful wrap-around rooftop verandah. The only bad part was they were constructing the building which we had bought and those workers started up early in the morning!

Tom had some all-important work to do in the states so he left me alone in Barbados but I had friends come down for a week. I dropped Tom off at the airport and got the only flat tyre of my life. I drove the car back home and called Stoute. They brought me a replacement car within the hour. Great service! The next day I picked up my friends and we spent the week tooling around the island. Took them back to the airport and picked up Tom.

We also had other guests that year.

2000 rolled around and we decided that maybe 4 weeks was too long to stay so we sold off the 4 weeks of our lock-off apartment and used the proceeds to buy an additional 2 weeks at Thanksgiving. We use those 2 weeks plus the 2 weeks we don't stay in our apartment in the rental pool so our place makes us money all year long. Good deal!

In 2001 my mother and our son came for a week of the 2. Michael was attending college and he had to get back to Massachusetts. It was a complicated plan but it worked. He and my mother flew back home – he helped her navigate the airport and customs and all. Then my friend who had stayed with me in 1999 picked them up at the airport and took my mom home and him to our house, then took him to the airport for Massachusetts the next morning. A really good friend!

Tuesday of that year we were out on a 4x4 jeep tour with our favorite driver, Zario. He picked us up and them we got a couple from New York City. We started the tour and got to the first stop. He'd been listening to the radio and said something about the World Trade Center. He was always joking and we thought that this was another story he was going to tell. As the day wore on, the news grew worse and worse. By the time we got to lunch, they had CNN on and all eyes were glued to it. No more funny stories, people laughing about their day. The NYC couple was worried about friends and family as was everyone.

The rest of the week was spent trying to call people at home, listening to news, reading the newspapers, emails, worrying. We didn't even know if we could get home. Paul said if we needed we could stay here. We were able to get out on Saturday to go to Puerto Rico. No one knew what would happen after that.

The airport at Puerto Rico was jammed with people who had no where else to go – the hotels were full, airports closed at home. We were very lucky. We got on the first American Airlines flight out, headed home. The crew came marching up the hallway with a huge American flag which they draped out the window on take-off and landing. It was so dramatic, with all the passengers cheering. They cheered, too, when we had a fighter plane escort into DC airspace. Most people seemed to think that they were there to protect us rather than shoot us down if we veered from our flight plan.

That was our most memorable year – hopefully there will never be another one similar to that!

Over the years we have shared Barbados with other friends and that has been nice but the nicest is that since we've sold the lock-off we are here by ourselves. Guests could sleep on the pull-out sofa but no one has done that yet.

This year when we arrived we got to see the new Crane Village. We'd seen the fences around the construction before and now, the real thing! As always, Paul did a fantastic job designing and building this to look like it's an old Bajan village. There's a town hall, Cave Shepherd (department store) , general store, Italian restaurant, beachwear store, jewelry store, gym and more. Reception is also in the Village so we checked in there and headed to our place.

The palm trees have really grown up outside the patio making it even more private – I like that! We can see some of the pool complex still and the ocean, of course. New pictures will be coming in a day or so to compare with the ones from past years.

We went out to the Emerald City grocery store to stock up on supplies for a few days. On the way we ran into Paul and we told him (again!) how pleased we were with the changes. He remembered us walking on the floorboards in the skeleton of this apartment while it was being built and that was cool.

We bought essentials including salt bread, tutti-fruiti milk, rum punch, coconut ice cream and other, more real, stuff.

By now I was exhausted. I'd missed a real nap for 2 days and hadn't slept well/long the night before. We stopped at Chefette for roti for dinner.

When we got home we had the roti and coleslaw. I was too tired to even finish my roti so I saved most of it. I fell asleep fully dressed on top of the bed and didn't wake up until housekeeping knocked on the door the next morning.

Sunday August 22:

At some point Tom told me he was headed out to meet some friends and that he'd made coffee. I'm sure I mumbled something in return before going back to sleep.

The next thing I knew housekeeping was here so I got some of that coffee and sat out on the deck. That's when I learned that there's wireless when the wind is blowing my way. We have a cable connection at the desk and wireless is better there but who wants to sit at a desk all day? I'm very familiar with taking computers over to Reception and using the wifi there but it will be even better if I get it here. Supposedly, at some point the whole place will be wireless and that will be nice but I'm not holding my breath! Everything that was promised to be done has been so I'm sure that this will come, too.

Tom got back and we got his computer and our internet phone set up then we went out to explore the new Village more. We bought the required t-shirts but Tom couldn't find a bathing suit in his size. Then we went down the glass elevator (new since we've been coming here – we used t have to take stairs down the cliff) to the beach. After walking on the sand and in the water a bit we came back for much-needed naptime.

And I started writing and writing...

Yesterday we ended up going to breakfast again here at the Crane.  We ran into four of the 8 others from the bus and talked with them a little.

I spent the rest of the morning lazing around - I do that a lot here - and Tom worked  - he does that a lot, too!  He had a meeting in Black Rock around noon.  I went in the little pool.

Finally, about 4:30PM on the next to the last day, we went in the big pool and outdoor, under-the-stars, Jacuzzi.  We ran into those same four again.  I guess they were having a lazy day, too.

Not much else of interest.  We're cleaning up leftovers since we're leaving Saturday.  We go through Charlotte, NC.  I see that the latest hurricane is supposed to hit that day.  Maybe we'll stay here longer - I wish!  I think Tom is ready to get back but I'm not.  He had another new job come in last night, so that's at least 2 new jobs since we got here.  He has a trip planned for Arizona next week, already getting back into the rat race.  Me, I could laze around forever given the choice.

Here's a list of some of the activities here in Barbados.  I'm sure I'm missing some but I'll add those next year!  Years listed before 2006 are guesses since my memory isn't that great.

To add...We've also been to Tyrol Cot, about 2005.

Saturday, August 23 (the day we arrived) was supposed to be a race day but it was rained out.  So, we got lucky this year when the race was postponed to August 30, instead.  We've always known that they had horse racing at the Garrison Savannah but it never had happened while we were here.  So, we decided to go.

I found out very late Friday night that one of my sites had been hacked. I had contacted Tech Support for my hosting company and got nowhere, being the Friday night/Saturday morning of a 3-day weekend.  So, Tom called them before we went.  At $2.00 a minute, I didn't want to stay on the line while they restored a database so I trusted them to do this and we left for the races.

We got to the Garrison Savannah in plenty of time and parked about 1/3 of the way around the oval, trying for a place in the "shade".  HA.

The Garrison area, just south of Bridgetown, is also home to the Barbados Museum & Historical Society as well as the newly opened George Washington House and Museum.  We have been to the Barbados Museum a few times but not (yet) this year.  It's set on the grounds of a 19th century military prison and has several galleries such as:

• Amerindian Culture
• Barbadian social and military history
• Antique maps, prints and paintings
• New African Gallery
• Interactive children's gallery
• Natural history
• A research library of Barbadian and Caribbean history
• and, of course, a gift store

The George Washington House and Museum is just opened this year so we haven't been there yet.  Neither that nor the Barbados Museum was open on race day.  We did walk past both on the way to  the grandstand for the race. 

I was amazed that we could get in so cheaply - it was only $10BDS each ($1BDS equals $1.98US) and $5BDS for the program.  $12.50 US for both of us.

I have never been to any kind of race so this was all new to me.  We were very close to the track and we sat by the finish line.  There was a grass track and an inner sand track.  We had been told that the sand track was used sometimes but it wasn't while we were there.

We were kind of confused at first because they were describing a race but no one was running.  It turned out that they were broadcasting another race from Sarasota in between the individual races here.

There were 10 races in all and we stayed for 4.  In the second, I picked a horse that I liked while it was walking around the track before the race.  When I found out it had a musical name - Bold Ballard - I was hooked.  Too bad I didn't bet.  Bold Ballard, number 8, won.

The 4th race was all horses from the US and UK.  I chose one from Ocala, FL because I thought that one could best deal with the heat.  Guess which won?  The jockey was 19 year old Chris Husbands.  He'd just won something like 4 out of 5 races in Trinidad in July.  And he did very well on Saturday.

After the 4th race we decided to leave and walk the other 2/3 of the way around the track (well, going that way was Tom's idea).  He kept looking back, thinking we could catch one more race.  I was hot and wanted to get something to eat.

While we were walking, they move the start gate halfway around the track.  When we got there, the horses were right in front of us.  Tom got a great picture of Chris Husbands.  He said he was having a "good day".  Guess so - he won that race, too!

Finally, back to our car and off to Bubba's for lunch.  Not my favorite but it's a sports bar with big screen TVs and American-style burgers and fries. The food is good but it's just a little too much USA and not enough Barbados.

Then back home for a dip in the pool, a bit of reading and a nap.

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Sunday mornings Tom always has a meeting here and today was no different.  Actually, Sundays are pretty slow here since the stores, museums and activities are mostly closed. 

The Crane has a nice Gospel Brunch followed by a lunch buffet with steel pan drums.  We used to go the the Brunch but the format has changed.  It used to be a drop in thing up until about 11:30-12:00.  Now it's 2 seatings.  One at 9, one at 10 and we can't make either of those.  We have never been to the lunch buffet.

Someone at the meeting asked Tom to go to another one at night.  It was up in St John parish and we've always gotten lost there.  Luckily, the guy agreed to meet Tom and lead him to the meeting - and back again, since it would be dark.

In the meantime, we talked to MIchael and wished him luck with his upcoming move on Monday and new job starting Tuesday.

The website is not fixed.  In fact, 2 others are now not working.  They had been fine, not hacked, before the database restore.  So, there are 3 with 500 Internal Server Errors.  I guess it's better than having that hacker stuff but I hope these can be restored.  So much work was put into them and I hate to have to redo everything.

Then, Tom went to his meeting...and ran into someone from his childhood hometown.  Small world!  He always seems to run into people he knows, no matter where he is. 

He brought back Chefette roti for dinner.  Yum!

Yesterday was such a lazy day for me. Tom ended up working most of the day, on the phone, in conferences, on the computer. So I read a lot of my book, went in the pool, napped and kept cycling through those three.

When he finally finished up he offered to go to Chefette and get some rotis for dinner.. Oh yes! I love roti. Chefette is sort of a Bajan version of McDonalds. There are no McDonalds here, or Burger Kings or most any of the fast food places of the states. Somehow, there is KFC here but that's about it.

So, Chefette fills most everyone's fast food needs with fried chicken, pizza, ice cream, burgers, fries and those rotis. Like similar places in the states, they have playgrounds, "drive thrus" and kid's meals.

Rotis are hugely popular here and most restaurants sell them at least for lunch. There are even places with names such as Roti Hut and there's a place this year that claims that it's the "Home of the One Pound Roti". I guess that's a relative of the "foot-long hotdog".

So, Tom came back with a chicken roti and a beef roti (and 2 kinds of ice cream!). The basic roti is pretty simple. It's potato, curry and other spices wrapped up in something similar to a tortilla. That's the "vegetarian" version. You can stop there or add the beef or chicken. A simple but delicious and filling meal.

We went out for a walk along the old pool, the cliff, sat by the new pools a bit then came back inside.

I had some trouble getting to sleep last night. It was a little warmer and my sunburn is getting a bit itchy so I tossed and turned for awhile. At some point, I noticed a pain/pressure in my chest. It feels sort of how I would imagine it if my lung got pinched in my ribs. Not a big pain but there. That led me to thinking about my cancer and the possibility that it metastasized to my lungs. Oh, joy. I started trying to think about where my lung nodules but couldn't remember. I think I have a CT scan in my future!

It's only 7:30 am right now and I already hear a small boat by the cliffs. Fishermen sail out there each morning to get the "catch of the day" for the L'Azure and Zen restaurants here and some of the west coast restaurants. One of the first years we were here, one of the staff pointed out lobster being brought in. It's amazing that they were so close to where people were swimming just up the beach.

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We're b-a-a-a-c-k!

We got to the helicopter parking place outside the Barbados Concorde Experience in plenty of time and our pilot went out to do a last minute check of everything. I was amazed how small this was - and that they covered it with a cloth, sort of like you do with a car in the driveway.

The pilot, David, let us know when he was ready and I dutifully followed while Tom, as always, took more pictures.

He caught up and more pictures were taken before the safety rules were discussed.

We learned not to open the door during flight - yeah, right! - and to keep the seatbelt on. No problem with any of that.

We sat for a while before take off. The engines had to warm up and we were listening to the flight tower from Grantley Adams airport so we would know when it was safe to go.

Finally, we lifted gently up and were off. It wasn't straight up like I'd imagined but it felt like we were a gondola swinging from the propellers. I felt vaguely dizzy. I had expected to feel scared, not

dizzy!

This is the Crane from the air. We followed the coast all the way around Barbados except for where the airport is.

Unfortunately, it started raining when we got near the northernmost point. David wanted to avoid the rain so he headed out to sea to get past the clouds.

I am not normally a good flyer. I hate turbulence, noise, anything out of the ordinary. So, here we are, cramped in this small space high above the ocean, heading out towards sea. And some rain came in through Tom's door. I was sure that his door wasn't properly sealed. I was also sure that I might be sick. I saw some barf bags so I guess I'm not the first one to think of that.

When we had passed the storm, we could actually see some shipwrecks in the water. We have snorkeled near these same wrecks so that was pretty cool.

By the time we got back, the rain had let up and it was a sunny day again. David landed and I wanted to get OUT. NOW. But we had to sit and wait for the propellers to stop spinning and for the engine to cool down before it could be turned off.

I was so glad to get back on solid ground. I can now say that I've been in a helicopter - and probably never will again!

Our helicopter tickets got us admission to the Concorde Experience so, of course, we went in there, too. The A/C was wonderful!

Until 2003 the Concorde had made regular flights to and from Barbados. This was one of only 4 regularly scheduled stops, the others being London, Paris and New York. It was always a big deal to see the Concorde arrive or depart. We happened to be here in Barbados for it's final flight from here and it was a big deal locally. We were very glad when we heard that British Airways was sending the Concorde back to Barbados on a permanent loan. There is also one in the Smithsonian Air and Space Museum which we have seen several times but their display is nowhere near as good.

We went inside the huge hangar housing the graceful plane and joined a group that had just started its tour. We learned some of the history of the plane, sat in a mock departure lounge, saw the luggage requirements (the plane isn't all that big inside and luggage was limited. It was expected that your maid or butler would fly a slower plane with the rest of your stuff), saw various place settings over the years.

Then we got to go up the red carpet and up the stairs. I thought if you were paying the thousands of dollars required for this trip they would have had an escalator!

The next guide greeted us and led us on - through the hold. It was really small and I could see why luggage was so limited.

The seats and windows were also much smaller than I'd have imagined. The windows were small to keep them from breaking at supersonic speeds and had 3 layers of glass.

After we saw the cockpit (also very small!) we deplaned and they had a show on the side of the plane. It was part light show, part movie, part sound effects. They lit lights on the floor that looked like a runway would look. They showed the speedometer and when it hit mach 2, there was a loud supersonic boom and I jumped out of my seat.

After that show, we walked around some, saw part of a movie of the history of the Concorde (on sale in the giftstore, of course), saw the history of flight in Barbados. I was interested to see that, in the very early days, before control towers, Cable and Wireless would call when a plane was coming in and someone would go out and light the grass in the field on fire so the pilot would know where to land. Amazing!

We could have gone up on the flight deck and watched planes arriving/departing Grantley Adams but I was getting tired. So what else is new? We looked around the giftstore some and Tom got some jim-crackies and a T-shirt.

We got back home and decided to go out to lunch. I was ready but Tom decide to check his email...so I fell asleep. We got to L'Azure, one of the restaurants here and sat out on the deck on top of the cliff.

Then, finally, real nap time for me. Hooray!

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Tom's version:

Before Flight over Barbados and surrounding seas

Sunny weather on the South Coast ...at The Crane overlooking Crane Beach

On the East Coast with an approaching storm

The edge of the storm above the waves breaking on the Atlantic Coast of Barbados

The pilot flies further out to sea as we move north working around the edge of the storm

The storm is largely behind us

Banking to starboard working around the storm

Out of the southern edge of the storm and back to sunny weather

Approaching the heliport

A few feet above touch down

A capable Pilot and A Passenger who is happy to be back on terra firma _______________

________________________ On the next day, after flying around the edges of a storm in the air, above Barbados We sail before a following wind aboard a Catamaran along the edges of a storm off shore along the West coast of Barbados

Dark clouds and choppy seas ...the storms are brief moments in otherwise sunny days

From http://www.caribbeannetnews.com/news-10062--26-26--.html

BRIDGETOWN, Barbados (BGIS): In a quest to promote cultural tourism and to honour this country’s slave heritage, the Barbados government is embarking on a “Slave Route Signage Project”.

To this end, on August 27, Minister of Tourism, Richard Sealy, will officially launch the Project with a Plaque Reveal Ceremony at the site of Chefette Restaurant, Upper Broad Street, Bridgetown.

The plaque to be unveiled will interpret the site of “The Cage” and is one of five interpretative signs being erected across Barbados under phase one of the project.

It is being executed by the Ministry of Tourism in collaboration with the Barbados Museum and Historical Society, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) and the Barbados Tourism Authority.

According to an official of the Ministry, “the Barbados project, which was launched in 2003, is one element of the Caribbean component of the UNESCO/WTO Slave Route Project, which was originally launched in Accra, Ghana, in April, 1995.

“At that time, the primary objective of the UNESCO/WTO was to foster economic and human development and to rehabilitate, restore and promote the tangible and intangible heritage handed down by the slave trade for the purpose of cultural tourism”.

The Barbados Slave Route Signage Project involves the identification, research and interpretation of sites and places of memory across Barbados that are linked to slavery and the transatlantic slave trade.

The interpretation of the sites will be effected through the erection of interpretative signage at the places identified.

Under phase one of the project, interpretative signage will be erected at the following four sites: Gun Hill, St. George; Sweet Bottom (Vale), St. George; Bourne’s Land, Christ Church; and The Cage, Bridgetown.

Meanwhile, a refurbished sign will be erected at the Newton Slave Burial Ground, Newton, Christ Church; and the sites identified will form the basis for the development of the proposed Barbados Slave Route Heritage Trail and Tour.